Blog - Trips
Trip reports
India - Just Tigers a trip with Naturetrek in 2022
10th December 2025 - 0 comments
10th December 2025 - 0 comments
In: Trips
INDIA NOVEMBER 2022
Friday 4th November/ Saturday 5th November
We left home at 9am for our drive to Heathrow. We took our time and had three stops on the way, the last one due to heavy traffic which meant we had to detour. Aeroplane was on time and we had a nice flight (along with a Titan group) into Indira Gandhi Airport. We arrived early as well which is always a bonus, retrieved our luggage, got stung by the money exchange (we learnt that this is standard for India) – we had to pay tax and then tax again on our rupees.
Our leader in India, Yusuf met us and we were then taken to our hotel (The Pullman in the aero city) which had as much security to enter it as the airport. During the security check they confiscated our binoculars (we think because the hotel was built around a quadrangle so they didn’t want us using them to peer into the rooms opposite)! I was allowed to keep my 600mm lens though!
However due to the timing of our arrival we were not allowed to check in for a couple of hours (they love their procedure and paperwork in India)! Yusuf then vanished for this time and we found a hotel bar and spent £5.40 each on a small diet coke. (tax added to tax again!)
We did manage to find a relatively reasonable lunch though – 150R for a nice flat bread – but again tax on tax and a service charge (which was taxed also!)
After lunch Yusuf reappeared and we had a short trip to Sultanpur National Park which is a local important bird reserve. Birds seen here included egrets, herons, painted stork, black headed ibis, wigeon, common and ferruginous pochard, purple swamphen, common moorhen and coot. We then returned for an early tea (£76 for two buffet tea) which was lovely.
We then had to change room as there was some incredibly loud music playing which we were told came from a wedding – it was deafening so we moved to a much nicer room on the outside of the building which was lovely and quiet so we could catch up on sleep after our flight.
Sunday 6th November
After a good night’s sleep breakfast was welcome at 8:30 and afterwards we were taken on a sight-seeing trip around Delhi (or New Delhi). This included India Gate, Defence Enclave buildings, Parliament House, Qutub Minar, Lodhi Garden and Humayun’s Tomb. India is very colourful, very busy and very noisy. With seemingly mad drivers but it just seems to work and there were very few accidents! Huge quantities of litter though on nearly every roadside in the cities.
After a lovely time exploring and a lovely restaurant lunch we then had to board our overnight train to Jabalpur along with a packed tea. We didn’t realise at the time but this was not going to be a very nice experience! Our night was crowded, noisy and with a very disturbed night’s sleep! It was an experience though but not one to be repeated ever!
A group of locals were talking loudly in the corridor most of the night, the curtain between the compartment and the corridor was very flimsy and moved each time a person walked by and the toilets….. Well they were ok at the start but rapidly became totally disgusting.
Monday 7th November
We arrived a few hours late but then were taken in very nice cars to Kanha – en route we stopped at a great hotel (Narmada Jackson) to refresh and have breakfast.
On arrival at Kanha (Tuli Tiger Reserve) around 1:30 pm we unpacked and were then taken on our first game drive to the kisli zone which was exciting but no tigers seen! Dinner was fantastic and this was followed by a restful night’s sleep.
Tuesday 8th November
Not long enough though as were wakened at 4:45 am for our morning drive in the kanha zone. We had to be at the park gates for 5:30 (drive started at 6am). Started cold and misty but did warm up nicely. Saw a flock of great egrets and lesser whistling ducks. Also herds of spotted and swamp deer and golden jackals, wild boar and gaur. Super drive but no tigers – there were however plenty of butterflies.
After lunch we went out again – plenty of butterflies again but no tigers. The jungle is very quiet, seems to be much quieter in the afternoon. There were plenty of birds, deer and wild boar but no tiger, although we did spot a footprint and the guides knew there were tigers in the vicinity as we heard sambar distress calls but the tigers were just out of sight. Kanha has a lot of vegetation so they could be just off the tracks and we wouldn’t be able to see them.
Favourite bird of the morning was the cuckoo and in the afternoon it was the jungle owlet.
On the drive back to the hotel we were stopped on the road next to a cow which suddenly gave a loud sneeze – made everyone in the truck jump!
Wednesday 9th November
Another early wake-up – this morning we were greeted by an enormous spider which we had to ask to be removed! It was colder today – we feel the tiger sighting is getting closer but this morning’s highlight was a sloth bear just off the track. Also spotted red and yellow wattled lapwing, red jungle fowl, white rumped and Indian vultures. Difficult light but tried to make the most of the opportunity – I ended up with a silhouette! Our guide saw a tiger in the distance for a few seconds and we saw tracks but still not tiger. No drive this afternoon as the tiger reserve is closed on Wednesday afternoons so we went for a walk near the hotel – lots of spiders, langurs and butterflies around the lake. Also spotted a scops owl and ruddy mongoose. Signature and orb web spiders, ruddy marsh hawk, wandering gliders and Indian pond heron.
Thursday November 10th
This was to be our tiger day! Went to the muki zone - almost immediately we entered the park we saw a tiger lying at the roadside in the bushes. So we stopped and waited – then to great excitement the tiger stood up and ambled across the road in front of us, sprayed and then continued into the bushes on that side of the road. The guides knew the park and raced around to the other side of the bushes on a different track and we saw her come out and cross an open space – loads of photographs and even greater excitement. The sight of a majestic tiger striding through the forest is totally unforgettable – surrounded by langur distress calls and the highlight so far.
On top of that we also saw a wild dog – the guides were more excited about this than the tiger as these sightings are much rare than tiger sightings. Back for lunch and we all had huge smiles on our faces!
After lunch we spotted another tiger although the views were not so good – still fantastic to see though. Also an Indian elephant, hoopoe and green bee eater washing in the sand on the road in front of us.
Friday November 11th
Kanha zone today and another tiger. We watched as it climbed part way up a tree. There were lots of jackals around today including a pair howling. Not so much other wildlife but when we visited the bush toilet there was a sloth bear crossing the road very close. The usual deer and birds but I really wanted to walk and see the butterflies. Strictly not allowed (and probably not very sensible in any case with tigers and bears around!). Had to clean the camera and lens when we got back as the tracks are very dusty – so dusty you need to wear a face covering to protect you, and even with a cover on the camera and lens plenty of dust covered them.
Saturday 12th November
Another early start which we are now getting used to but no tigers. They were around us (according to the guides) but we just missed them all. We did see racket tailed drongos, treepies, alexandrine and rose winged parakeet and grey hornbills. Another jeep saw a leopard but not us. There were jackals, birds and deer also. Tomorrow is our wedding anniversary and our last full day in the wonderful park of Kanha. Apart from the loud music from the hotel next to us it has been wonderful. Lovely food, (I even got to like dahl!), very welcoming and friendly people and fantastic wildlife. Highlight of today was a dead tree full of lots of different species of birds.
Sunday 13th November.
Married 18 years today. Another lovely day in the forest (sarai zone this time) but no tigers and for some reason not much else today. Very cold morning. At dinner we had a farewell meal which included an anniversary cake made by the hotel for us which was very nice (and very sweet!!)
Monday 14th November.
Our final game drive today – lots of tigers heard but none seen. Then back to Tuli Tiger Lodge for our last lunch before the drive back to Jabalpur at 1:45pm and another overnight train which was slightly better than before but not by much! Arrived at Agra an hour late.
Tuesday 15th November
Today we visited the Taj Mahal – another highlight of our trip. Also Little Taj and the Red Fort. We had a wonderful lunch in a local restaurant in Agra and the taj did not disappoint. It has always been one of the places in the world I most wanted to visit and it was worth the wait. PK our guide was very good. Sadly after these visits we had to part ways with the lovely family who had shared our adventure so far as they were returning home to Llanelli via the train to Delhi while we were being driven to Bharatpur for one night at the Birders Inn. This was a lovely little hotel with a huge room and delicious food.
Wednesday 16th November
Harish was to be our guide for the visit to the Keoladeo Bird Park next door with wonderful bird life. Amazingly we had to ride on a rickshaw pedalled by a very old man – we felt a little sorry for him as it was hard work! A splendid morning watching the local wildlife which included dragonflies as well as butterflies.
After lunch we caught the train to Ranthambore for our stay at The Pugmark. There was a lovely welcome, a super room and the food was spectacular.
Thursday 17th November
First drive out was 6:45 till around 10 am. Nice to have a small lie-in! However we were up at 5:45 and met our guide KK and driver Bappu – no blankets here as it is a little warmer (little being the operative word!!)
Within 5 minutes of entering the park we saw a huge male tiger striding through the forest – less shrubbery here so easier to see. We got great views and even saw it crouch to drink from a little pool. Quite dark though so a little worried about the light levels for photography but needn’t have worried – we have a large canvas on our dining room wall of the tiger drinking which is super quality. Nothing else much to see but this park is lovely with lakes and old buildings throughout. We did see a ruddy mongoose on the way back.
After lunch we walked to the farm on the hotel site where there were lots of butterflies. The afternoon drive was uneventful apart from some lovely reflection photos!
Friday 18th November
We visited zone 6 today but again not much happening. We saw tiger and sloth bear tracks and in the afternoon we saw francolin and blue bull (gaur). No tigers – maybe because we raced around the park! There were toilets dotted around this park and the one today demanded money (which we didn’t have as we didn’t take anything with us apart from cameras). Pied kingfisher and another mongoose. More loud music in the evening from somewhere!
Saturday 19th November
Last drive today but very uneventful. Back to the lodge and showered and packed. After lunch we checked out and waited for Harish to collect us – have to say throughout the trip everything was impeccably arranged and mostly to time (even though it might have been Indian time!). Train left at 17:35 and was only 15 minutes late – we had a lovely 1st class compartment complete with AC and a lockable door with a screen we could draw down. This was utter luxury compared with the overnight trains previously!. We had some sandwiches made by the hotel to eat and a fruit drink and then sat back and enjoyed the 5-hour ride back to Delhi. On arrival we were collected by Raj for our short drive to the hotel. Nice to have a bit of luxury!
Sunday 20th November
Collected from hotel for our flight home. A bit of drama here though as one of our bags ended up in security (I had forgotten the power bank was in it) and I had to go to collect it and be interrogated by the security staff. This was while Tam waited anxiously at boarding and had no idea what was happening – we did make it on the plane though with only 20 minutes to spare! Highlight of the flight back was flying near the Himalayas which was awesome.
Friday 4th November/ Saturday 5th November
We left home at 9am for our drive to Heathrow. We took our time and had three stops on the way, the last one due to heavy traffic which meant we had to detour. Aeroplane was on time and we had a nice flight (along with a Titan group) into Indira Gandhi Airport. We arrived early as well which is always a bonus, retrieved our luggage, got stung by the money exchange (we learnt that this is standard for India) – we had to pay tax and then tax again on our rupees.
Our leader in India, Yusuf met us and we were then taken to our hotel (The Pullman in the aero city) which had as much security to enter it as the airport. During the security check they confiscated our binoculars (we think because the hotel was built around a quadrangle so they didn’t want us using them to peer into the rooms opposite)! I was allowed to keep my 600mm lens though!
However due to the timing of our arrival we were not allowed to check in for a couple of hours (they love their procedure and paperwork in India)! Yusuf then vanished for this time and we found a hotel bar and spent £5.40 each on a small diet coke. (tax added to tax again!)
We did manage to find a relatively reasonable lunch though – 150R for a nice flat bread – but again tax on tax and a service charge (which was taxed also!)
After lunch Yusuf reappeared and we had a short trip to Sultanpur National Park which is a local important bird reserve. Birds seen here included egrets, herons, painted stork, black headed ibis, wigeon, common and ferruginous pochard, purple swamphen, common moorhen and coot. We then returned for an early tea (£76 for two buffet tea) which was lovely.
We then had to change room as there was some incredibly loud music playing which we were told came from a wedding – it was deafening so we moved to a much nicer room on the outside of the building which was lovely and quiet so we could catch up on sleep after our flight.
Sunday 6th November
After a good night’s sleep breakfast was welcome at 8:30 and afterwards we were taken on a sight-seeing trip around Delhi (or New Delhi). This included India Gate, Defence Enclave buildings, Parliament House, Qutub Minar, Lodhi Garden and Humayun’s Tomb. India is very colourful, very busy and very noisy. With seemingly mad drivers but it just seems to work and there were very few accidents! Huge quantities of litter though on nearly every roadside in the cities.
After a lovely time exploring and a lovely restaurant lunch we then had to board our overnight train to Jabalpur along with a packed tea. We didn’t realise at the time but this was not going to be a very nice experience! Our night was crowded, noisy and with a very disturbed night’s sleep! It was an experience though but not one to be repeated ever!
A group of locals were talking loudly in the corridor most of the night, the curtain between the compartment and the corridor was very flimsy and moved each time a person walked by and the toilets….. Well they were ok at the start but rapidly became totally disgusting.
Monday 7th November
We arrived a few hours late but then were taken in very nice cars to Kanha – en route we stopped at a great hotel (Narmada Jackson) to refresh and have breakfast.
On arrival at Kanha (Tuli Tiger Reserve) around 1:30 pm we unpacked and were then taken on our first game drive to the kisli zone which was exciting but no tigers seen! Dinner was fantastic and this was followed by a restful night’s sleep.
Tuesday 8th November
Not long enough though as were wakened at 4:45 am for our morning drive in the kanha zone. We had to be at the park gates for 5:30 (drive started at 6am). Started cold and misty but did warm up nicely. Saw a flock of great egrets and lesser whistling ducks. Also herds of spotted and swamp deer and golden jackals, wild boar and gaur. Super drive but no tigers – there were however plenty of butterflies.
After lunch we went out again – plenty of butterflies again but no tigers. The jungle is very quiet, seems to be much quieter in the afternoon. There were plenty of birds, deer and wild boar but no tiger, although we did spot a footprint and the guides knew there were tigers in the vicinity as we heard sambar distress calls but the tigers were just out of sight. Kanha has a lot of vegetation so they could be just off the tracks and we wouldn’t be able to see them.
Favourite bird of the morning was the cuckoo and in the afternoon it was the jungle owlet.
On the drive back to the hotel we were stopped on the road next to a cow which suddenly gave a loud sneeze – made everyone in the truck jump!
Wednesday 9th November
Another early wake-up – this morning we were greeted by an enormous spider which we had to ask to be removed! It was colder today – we feel the tiger sighting is getting closer but this morning’s highlight was a sloth bear just off the track. Also spotted red and yellow wattled lapwing, red jungle fowl, white rumped and Indian vultures. Difficult light but tried to make the most of the opportunity – I ended up with a silhouette! Our guide saw a tiger in the distance for a few seconds and we saw tracks but still not tiger. No drive this afternoon as the tiger reserve is closed on Wednesday afternoons so we went for a walk near the hotel – lots of spiders, langurs and butterflies around the lake. Also spotted a scops owl and ruddy mongoose. Signature and orb web spiders, ruddy marsh hawk, wandering gliders and Indian pond heron.
Thursday November 10th
This was to be our tiger day! Went to the muki zone - almost immediately we entered the park we saw a tiger lying at the roadside in the bushes. So we stopped and waited – then to great excitement the tiger stood up and ambled across the road in front of us, sprayed and then continued into the bushes on that side of the road. The guides knew the park and raced around to the other side of the bushes on a different track and we saw her come out and cross an open space – loads of photographs and even greater excitement. The sight of a majestic tiger striding through the forest is totally unforgettable – surrounded by langur distress calls and the highlight so far.
On top of that we also saw a wild dog – the guides were more excited about this than the tiger as these sightings are much rare than tiger sightings. Back for lunch and we all had huge smiles on our faces!
After lunch we spotted another tiger although the views were not so good – still fantastic to see though. Also an Indian elephant, hoopoe and green bee eater washing in the sand on the road in front of us.
Friday November 11th
Kanha zone today and another tiger. We watched as it climbed part way up a tree. There were lots of jackals around today including a pair howling. Not so much other wildlife but when we visited the bush toilet there was a sloth bear crossing the road very close. The usual deer and birds but I really wanted to walk and see the butterflies. Strictly not allowed (and probably not very sensible in any case with tigers and bears around!). Had to clean the camera and lens when we got back as the tracks are very dusty – so dusty you need to wear a face covering to protect you, and even with a cover on the camera and lens plenty of dust covered them.
Saturday 12th November
Another early start which we are now getting used to but no tigers. They were around us (according to the guides) but we just missed them all. We did see racket tailed drongos, treepies, alexandrine and rose winged parakeet and grey hornbills. Another jeep saw a leopard but not us. There were jackals, birds and deer also. Tomorrow is our wedding anniversary and our last full day in the wonderful park of Kanha. Apart from the loud music from the hotel next to us it has been wonderful. Lovely food, (I even got to like dahl!), very welcoming and friendly people and fantastic wildlife. Highlight of today was a dead tree full of lots of different species of birds.
Sunday 13th November.
Married 18 years today. Another lovely day in the forest (sarai zone this time) but no tigers and for some reason not much else today. Very cold morning. At dinner we had a farewell meal which included an anniversary cake made by the hotel for us which was very nice (and very sweet!!)
Monday 14th November.
Our final game drive today – lots of tigers heard but none seen. Then back to Tuli Tiger Lodge for our last lunch before the drive back to Jabalpur at 1:45pm and another overnight train which was slightly better than before but not by much! Arrived at Agra an hour late.
Tuesday 15th November
Today we visited the Taj Mahal – another highlight of our trip. Also Little Taj and the Red Fort. We had a wonderful lunch in a local restaurant in Agra and the taj did not disappoint. It has always been one of the places in the world I most wanted to visit and it was worth the wait. PK our guide was very good. Sadly after these visits we had to part ways with the lovely family who had shared our adventure so far as they were returning home to Llanelli via the train to Delhi while we were being driven to Bharatpur for one night at the Birders Inn. This was a lovely little hotel with a huge room and delicious food.
Wednesday 16th November
Harish was to be our guide for the visit to the Keoladeo Bird Park next door with wonderful bird life. Amazingly we had to ride on a rickshaw pedalled by a very old man – we felt a little sorry for him as it was hard work! A splendid morning watching the local wildlife which included dragonflies as well as butterflies.
After lunch we caught the train to Ranthambore for our stay at The Pugmark. There was a lovely welcome, a super room and the food was spectacular.
Thursday 17th November
First drive out was 6:45 till around 10 am. Nice to have a small lie-in! However we were up at 5:45 and met our guide KK and driver Bappu – no blankets here as it is a little warmer (little being the operative word!!)
Within 5 minutes of entering the park we saw a huge male tiger striding through the forest – less shrubbery here so easier to see. We got great views and even saw it crouch to drink from a little pool. Quite dark though so a little worried about the light levels for photography but needn’t have worried – we have a large canvas on our dining room wall of the tiger drinking which is super quality. Nothing else much to see but this park is lovely with lakes and old buildings throughout. We did see a ruddy mongoose on the way back.
After lunch we walked to the farm on the hotel site where there were lots of butterflies. The afternoon drive was uneventful apart from some lovely reflection photos!
Friday 18th November
We visited zone 6 today but again not much happening. We saw tiger and sloth bear tracks and in the afternoon we saw francolin and blue bull (gaur). No tigers – maybe because we raced around the park! There were toilets dotted around this park and the one today demanded money (which we didn’t have as we didn’t take anything with us apart from cameras). Pied kingfisher and another mongoose. More loud music in the evening from somewhere!
Saturday 19th November
Last drive today but very uneventful. Back to the lodge and showered and packed. After lunch we checked out and waited for Harish to collect us – have to say throughout the trip everything was impeccably arranged and mostly to time (even though it might have been Indian time!). Train left at 17:35 and was only 15 minutes late – we had a lovely 1st class compartment complete with AC and a lockable door with a screen we could draw down. This was utter luxury compared with the overnight trains previously!. We had some sandwiches made by the hotel to eat and a fruit drink and then sat back and enjoyed the 5-hour ride back to Delhi. On arrival we were collected by Raj for our short drive to the hotel. Nice to have a bit of luxury!
Sunday 20th November
Collected from hotel for our flight home. A bit of drama here though as one of our bags ended up in security (I had forgotten the power bank was in it) and I had to go to collect it and be interrogated by the security staff. This was while Tam waited anxiously at boarding and had no idea what was happening – we did make it on the plane though with only 20 minutes to spare! Highlight of the flight back was flying near the Himalayas which was awesome.
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